A Travellerspoint blog

Hot Stream Waterfall

And an eventful journey along the way

sunny 31 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

As we departed our bus in Krabi we made friends with a Canadian couple. It turned out they had checked a place to stay so we asked if it was okay to tag along. They were a little hesitant, but agreed anyway. A number of tuc tuc drivers started to pester us, looking to take us into town. We felt their prices were a bit pricey, so we declined (multiple times) and began to walk. We had managed to catch a glimpse of one of the tuc tuc drivers maps, and from this we worked out (guessed) that the walk was a mere 3 km at most. It turned out to be 7. With the time fast approaching 11pm, we started to finally reach some guest houses. We got turned away from the first with “sorry, we're full” but undeterred, we continued on. Success! We found a nice looking guest house where the friendly ladies who ran it were just about to close up. The room was clean, and that was enough for us “thank you, we'll take it!” The guest house had named each of it's room's according to the colour they were painted. our Canadian friends, Dan and Fran, took 'Cookies and Cream', which left us with the lovely 'Bubblegum' room. Decorated in pretty bubblegum pink – well at least Steph was happy!

We met Dan and Fran for breakfast over the next couple of days. We found a nice little cafe just around the corner from where we were staying, where I enjoyed many Kiwi shakes and Steph treated herself to some scrambled eggs accompanied with beans on toast. During our stay, Krabi played host to a number of boat races along it's river. It was fun to watch, and the races drew quite a crowd!

We decided to rent a moped and take a trip over to where a 'hot stream waterfall' was located. All went well to start with. I handled the roads and the traffic pretty easily, and we were well on our way. However, about 30 minutes into the ride, we were travelling down a two lane motorway when all of a sudden the back end started to feel as if it was on an ice rink. Fairly certain we hadn't detoured over a plain of ice, we decided to pull over and check it out. Flat tyre... great. Fortunately, on the other side of the road (across four lanes of high speed traffic) there was a mechanic, and slightly further along there was a petrol station. Unsure whether we should get it fixed, we decided the best thing to do was contact the place we rented the bike from, and check with them what we should do.

Steph headed down to the petrol garage and tried to ring the office. Meanwhile a local man, who had a tuc tuc full of long grass had stopped to 'help' us. He insisted on trying to load the bike onto his tuc tuc, and take us back into town, a 30 minute drive away. I told him “thanks, but we need to talk to the office first” fearing he would charge us for his act of kindness. He didn't speak a word of English, so after he started trying to move our moped I put my hands on it and gave him a firm “NO. WAIT.” He must have understood that, as he jumped in his tuc tuc and left pretty quickly. A short while later Steph returned, with bad news - no answer from the office. She did, however, say the lady over there was very friendly, so we decided to go and get some advice as to how much it would cost before we got ripped off at the mechanics. With a price in our heads we moved to the mechanics and asked him to fix it. It turned out we needed a whole new tyre (which actually cost the same as our days rental fee – about £3!) after taking some photographic evidence to show the office on our return we continued on our way.

We finally reached the hot stream waterfall around 1pm. We parked the bike and went to explore. First we encountered a series of hot pools or water, where the water rose just above the knee. It was amazing, as the temperature of the water was nearly unbearably hot, and yet the rock pools were completely natural. We carried on in search of the waterfall. A short walk later and we found it. A stunning little waterfall, with crystal clear water and a series of pools at the top of it. The water was a beautiful emerald green colour due to the minerals in its rocks. Again the temperature was incredible. It was like having a hot bath in the middle of a forest. The experience was truly breathtaking. I climbed down the rocks a bit further, and let the hot water pound my back for a while. Then I dived into the river at it's base where to my surprise the water was icy cold! We towelled off and headed back to the bike for some lunch and an ice cream.

The rest of the day (and some of the night) was spent cruising around on the moped. It was a good way to see more of the surrounding area, as there is only so far you are able to walk on foot in the scorching sun.

Ant Knee

Posted by howlett 16:53 Archived in Thailand Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

Malaysian Border Run

And with it, 14 more days in Thailand!

sunny 30 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

After a couple of days of R&R we headed off to Hat Yai for a border run into Malaysia to extend our Thai visa another couple of weeks. I have to say I was pretty nervous about doing it, as I had visions of us getting hit with bribes, hidden costs and possibly worse by corrupt border police.

In actual fact, the run was pretty straight forward. We booked a bus down to Hat Yai, then booked a mini bus direct to the border. Once there, we literally walked across the border (through no-mans land) into Malaysia. The walk was 1km, which was tough considering the humidity with our heavy backpacks, plus there was no pavement so we were forced to share the road with huge trucks. We finally reached Malaysian soil, then as soon as we received our immigration stamps we asked the border guard “how do we get out?!” He pointed us in the right direction, and within the space of 5 minutes we were checking back into Thailand. We ask some friendly locals how to get back to Hat Yai, and before long we were on a local bus well on our way.

Once at Hat Yai bus station we jumped on a bus headed for Krabi – the best jumping off point to get to the island of Koh Phi Phi...

Ant Knee

Posted by howlett 16:52 Archived in Thailand Tagged bus Comments (0)

Scuba Diving on Koh Tao

Beautiful sun, sea and sand

sunny 32 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

Situated halfway down Thailands east coast, adjacent to Koh Phang Nhang and Koh Samui, Koh Tao (otherwise known as Turtle Island) is known predominantly for it's fantastic scuba diving.

We stayed just off Sariee Beach, the largest beach on the island. Sariee Beach is lined with bungalows and bars, and a wide range of scuba diving options. Due to the cheap accommodation options it's also the main backpacker area. Even though where we stayed was basic to say the least, the shear beauty of the island made up for it. I did as many dives as I could while I was there, and let me tell you the diving was excellent! I saw giant turtles, blue spotted rays, lots of reef sharks, moray eels and even a rare sighting of some bryder whales!

During the evenings we would usually head down to one of the beach restaurants, and then on to one of the many bars where there would usually be displays of live music and fire dancing – awesome!

The Sariee Beach is naturally quite a busy area, so we decided to head for some seclusion and travel across to Coral Bay on the other side of the island. We were given a warm welcome by the staff, and the views from our bungalow were absolutely stunning – true paradise.

Ant Knee

Posted by howlett 16:48 Archived in Thailand Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

Our Worst Journey Yet, Bound for Island Paradise

Thieves, protesters, sea sickness and a very long wait...

sunny 33 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

We had heard much about the legendary 'Full Moon Party' on Koh Phang Nhang, which takes place roughly once a month on the night of a full moon. Unfortunately the date of the next party crept up on us, and we ended up looking to book accommodation the night before! We'd been warned that you need to book in advance, and whoever it was that gave that advice certainly wasn't lying. I'm sure if we had just turned up at Koh Phang Nhang we would have eventually found a bed for the night, but seeing as our budget is incredibly tight we decided to just scrap the idea and head for the smaller, quieter island of Koh Tao instead.

Unfortunately, before we could reach a heavenly paradise we had to travel through yet another hellish bus journey. All started well and we headed south on our overnight bus ride from Chiang Mai towards Bangkok. However, things rapidly turned sour when Steph awoke to a Thai man dressed all in black, with his hand inside the bag of the Italian lady who was sleeping in front of us! She woke me, and I caught a glimpse of the guy darting for the stairs behind our seat. I chased him down, but he had already made his way into the baggage compartment and (re)locked the door behind him. In total shock we immediately checked our day bags and money belt to make sure nothing was missing. Fortunately we were okay, but after waking the rest of the bus to inform them we found that the Italian lady was €200 short, and a French lady sitting on the back row had lost 1800 baht (all her money) from the money belt under her shirt!

The Italian women's husband together with myself and a couple of the other guys on the bus went to confront the bus driver. We screamed at him to stop the bus and to give back the money they had taken. He handed over the keys to the luggage compartment so I headed down stairs to the check it out. To my dismay I found broken padlocks, pliers and a small compartment behind the driver where 3 Thai men were hiding! After a minute or two the bus driver pulled over, strangely at our correct drop-off point in Bangkok. It was about 5am, so we'd arrived well over an hour before schedule... suspicious considering we are almost always late!

A few of our fellow passengers attempted to ring the tourist police without success, and eventually we got the attention of some traffic police. Shortly after that an annoying random American guy turned up, and got involved by helpfully pointing out to the police that Steph was the only witness to the incident. That was our cue to leave, as Steph had previously read a number of books about how easy it is to get locked up in Thai prisons. Even knowing we were completely innocent of any wrong doing, we decided it was best to avoid any contact what-so-ever with Thai police. A wise choice me thinks.

It was now 6am. Loaded up with our bags and feeling shattered and still in shock, we took a sweaty walk through the Bangkok sunshine. We headed for the travel agents we had used before to cross into Lao a few weeks earlier. That journey was excellent from start to finish, so we were hoping for more of the same on the rest of our way down to the islands. Of course it was still too early for the shop to be open yet, and unfortunately we discovered it doesn't open until 10am! With nothing better to do we sat around and decided to go get some breakfast. Final the travel agent opened and we booked the earliest bus possible out of Bangkok. This meant waiting until 7pm, so we had time to kill...

We took a river taxi down to the shopping district and had a wander around one of the best shopping malls I've ever visited. Pity we weren't looking to buy anything! Then we took a walk through the red shirt protesters on our way to Khao San road. We grabbed some dinner from a street vendor, then finally we headed back to the travel agents in time for our bus down south.

This time the overnight bus to Chumpon, our jump off point for the boat to Koh Tao, was much better. There were no drama's and we arrived at the dock in plenty of time to catch our boat to the island, which was due to depart at 7am. Feeling very sleep deprived and in need of a shower, we boarded the boat. It wasn't long before Steph started to feel a little queezy. With only a plastic bag that had a gaping hole in it to hand, things got a little messy. I went to fetch some proper bags and came back to my pretty girlfriend in a bad way. Amazingly though, she seems to have perfected the technique of being sick silently!

A couple of bumpy hours later we finally reached Koh Tao and headed for our accommodation. Unfortunately we had chosen a budget option, and it really showed. The room was horrible with bugs and insects all over the place, and the mattresses came completely with lots of orange mould stains. A perfect end to a horrible 60 hour journey. Let's hope the beaches and the diving help...

Ant Knee

Posted by howlett 16:44 Archived in Thailand Tagged bus Comments (0)

Chiang Mai – Flight of the Gibbon, Tiger Kingdom and more!

Lots to do but first it was time for a little R&R

sunny 30 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

After a day recovery and general chill-axing after the crazy journey the day before we decided it was time to go and see what Chiang Mai had to offer. We booked a trip to do 'Flight of the Gibbon' – where you get to fly through the jungle canopy on zip lines and rope bridges! It was great fun being up high and learning about the wildlife in the jungle. We were even lucky enough to spot the only two gibbon's living in the area – one male, one female. We were told it's very unlikely to even see one, so to see both was incredible.

After the experience was over we took a long walk to the nearest shopping mall to find a cinema, where we watched 'How to Train a Dragon'. I loved it.

The next day we took a share taxi to Tiger Kingdom. A place where it is possible to get up close and personal with lions and tigers by actually getting into the enclosures with them! This was something I had wanted to do for a very long time, so needless to say I was extremely excited. I also felt a little anxious however, as we had heard that at some of this places the tigers are badly mistreated, and in some cases even drugged. From all of our research we concluded that the mistreatment mostly takes place at Tiger Temple in Bangkok. I really hoped that this was true, and the tigers at Tiger Kingdom were looked after properly, as these beautiful creatures deserve to be.

On arrival we chose to spent some time with a 1 year old lion named 'Jonny' after Jonny Depp, and after that we would step into the fully grown tigers enclosure. Nervously I entered the lions enclosure and slow approached the lion, which was in fact very large and almost fully grown! He was beautiful. We were informed before we entered that his brother had recently passed away, and it was clear to see from his body language that he was a little depressed. However, once we got close enough to stroke him and give him some affection he started to cheer up a bit, and he even rolled over a few times as if he wanted to play! The handler obviously prevented him from doing this, as it could be dangerous for us if he got a little over excited, but it was still good to see.

After a short break we headed for the fully grown tigers. There were around 4 or 5 tigers in quite a large enclosure which contained a swimming pool and a few shady areas. The experience was breathtaking. I was in awe at their beauty, not to mention their size! Even at rest they dominated their environment. We spent a while stroking the tigers and grabbing a couple of photo's, and we even got to watch one of the handlers playing with one of the tigers in the swimming pool, which he seemed to be enjoying quite a lot!

Before we knew it the experience was over. Still buzzing with adrenaline we proceeded to wander the park and watch the rest of the tigers. We found an enclosure that contained 3 young tigers that were having some fun play fighting in the water. It was brilliant to watch as they practised pouncing and attacking one another. Something I will never forget.

We continued on to the baby tigers, which were so cute and cuddly. They almost looked like little stuffed toys bouncing around!

We left the park with huge smiles on our faces, and they remained all the way back to our hotel. To round off another great day in Chiang Mai we took a walk through the largest outdoor market in the world! There were stands lining every street, and walk ways that even lead underground to even more stands. One set of stands that really stood out to me was a series of artists that worked with charcoal pencils. Their drawings were stunning. So realistic and detailed. It was a shame our budget wouldn't allow for one of them as a souvenir, so instead we settled for a business card so that we would be able to order one later via email.

After a long hot walk we headed back to the cinema to round of the evening with a film. This time we watched 'Green Zone' – great film, and quite controversial. At every cinema in Thailand, before the film starts you must stand up and pay your respects to the King. A short film is shown depicting some early footage of the King, while the Thai National Anthem plays in the background. It's quite unusual, but clearly shows the level of respect the Thai people have for their King. His face is shown on posters everywhere from restaurants to inside tuc tuc carriages.

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 16:42 Archived in Thailand Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

Border Crossing from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai by Bus

The insane border crossing from Laos to Thailand!

sunny 30 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

I was sad to be leaving Luang Prabang, but at the same time excited by the prospect of heading into Northern Thailand! The downside was that we knew the journey would be long, and horrible over land.

We were transferred to the bus as usual, and found out that the bus didn't have a toilet on board, as we were promised by the travel agents. This would not usually have been an issue, but due to reasons best unsaid it was quite important to have a toilet on this journey. Anyway, after some useless discussions with the driver and a phone call to the travel agents we gave up and got on board. It was a night bus so it was going to be a long one, but the journey was considerably lengthened by the driver picking up local people at every opportunity and placing plastic chairs in the isles for them to sit/sleep on. After there was literally no more space for standing or sitting it was lights out, which lead to Steph having a ladys head nestled on her arm as she attempted to get comfortable for a couple of hours sleep.

We weren't really bothered by locals travelling on the bus and the disruptions to our journey, but the issue came when we arrived late to the border. We were told we would arrive 2 hours early and would have to wait for the boat to take us across the river. It turned out we were over half an hour late for the boat, and we were then told that the bus to Chiang Mai wouldn't wait for us on the other side and had probably already left! Not good. We were then told that we would need a tuc tuc to get to the jetty. This was a major problem as we didn't have enough to pay for it because we were under the impression the entire journey was paid for! A very kind Russian man offered to help us out with payment, and it wasn't long before we were making a frantic charge for the jetty. We untidily filled out the appropriate immigration papers as we bounced around in the tuc tuc. After a frustratingly slow immigration check point we clambered on to a tiny wooden boat, very clumsily with our big bags, and travelled the short distance across the river. Before long we were racing for another tuc tuc, and on our way to find out if we had made it in time for the bus to Chiang Mai. We made it just in time! The next problem was that there wasn't any space for our bags on the tiny mini bus! While the driver struggle like a huge game of Tetris to fit it all in, we heard a massive bang from behind us. The tuc tuc we had just been riding on had collapsed onto it's single front wheel, leaving it obstructing the only way out for the mini bus! This lead to a further delay of at least half an hour. Eventually once again we were on our way – crammed into a tiny space at the front of the mini bus, with one of my legs down next to the driver and the other wedged by out day bags. I remember thinking this 5 hour journey was not going to be enjoyable. I was right.

Exhusted, we were grateful to finally reach Chiang Mai. We found a relatively nice place to stay for pretty cheap, and best of all it had a swimming pool!

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 16:37 Archived in Thailand Tagged bus Comments (0)

Heading North to Beautiful Luang Prabang

Stunning little holiday town with a lively night market and an amazing waterfall!

sunny 32 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

I must start by apologising for the delay in keeping my travel blog updated. I'd like to say it's because we've been none stop crazy busy, but really it's just that I've kind of forgotten to dedicate some time to it! Anyway, I've still been making notes as we've gone along, so I can keep you all updated now that I have some time to kill during a 5 hour bus ride in Malaysia.

After we'd completed an epic bike ride to the water cave in Vang Vieng we decided to continue north to a beautiful little town called Luang Prabang. Little did we know, the journey to get to this scenic little destination would be enough to have us kissing the ground and thanking our lucky stars that we had arrived safely! As you might have guessed by now the journey was, lets say, eventful.

We got transferred by mini bus to the main bus as usual, only to find that the decrepit bus we were about to board was clearly on it's last legs. We were no longer surprised by discoveries such as this, because we'd come to expect the very worst when it comes to transport of tourists in South East Asia. Unfortunately the state of the bus was the least of our worries, as it seemed that the bus 'driver' (I say the term very loosely) was suicidal and didn't seem to mind taking 30 plus passengers along with him! We hurtled around the mountainside, navigating some incredibly sharp, blind, corners at pretty much full speed. It didn't seem to matter that there was no form of barrier between us and the edge of the cliff face. Our driver seemed to struggle changing gear, breaking and steering – three things that are relatively important in road safety.

It was only a matter of time before our driver misjudged a corner and wound up crashing into a passing pick-up truck. We were all actually relieved when it happened, because it meant that we could get off and make the most of living. After a large argument (and a small back hander) we restarted our perilous journey. Soon after our driver decided he was bored of driving on 4 wheels and tried to use a ditch to get the bus up onto two wheels! Well, in reality he crashed into the ditch on the inside of the mountain road whilst trying to avoid a much larger truck after going yet again too fast into a blind bend! After the crash the bus ended up on 3 wheels with the front left raised high into the air. As we got off to survey the damage, we were all simply thankful that we had crashed on this side of the road and hadn't plummeted to certain doom a few seconds earlier. After a while we were back on our way. The winding roads took there toll, and we all started to feel pretty sick.

We eventually arrived in Luang Prabang, and were dropped just outside town, which was frustrating as it meant we had to then pay for a tuc tuc to take us the 10km into the centre. I came across a nice little place, in a good location and with free wifi for a decent price. I don't think we have ever been so grateful for a warm shower and a comfy bed! There was just time for a quick Skype call to mum before a trip to the land of nod.

The next day we grabbed some breakfast and then joined a trip to a nearby waterfall. Before joining the track that lead to the base of the waterfall we came across a bear sanctuary. It was amazing to see these giant beasts at relatively close proximity. Some were playing with the tyres, while the larger bears lazied around on the custom built hammocks and wooden structures.

A short walk through the forest and we found ourselves at the foot of the waterfall. It was simply incredible. The picturesque turquoise water cascaded down over the rocks. I couldn't wait to jump in! The water was cool and very refreshing. There's nothing like feeling the power of water as it tumbles down onto your back. I could have stayed for hours, feeling more and more relaxed every second as I listened to the tranquil sound of the water crashing into the rocks.

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 06:40 Archived in Laos Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

Bike Ride to Water Cave

An interesting, and slightly scary experience

sunny 27 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

We decided to rent some bikes and take on the 30km ride to get to the entrance of a place called 'water cave'. The ride was really enjoyable, as the temperature in Laos was much like an average summers day back in England. We rode through several villages, and across a bridge before finally reaching the path that lead down to the entrance. After being stung for a 'parking fee' to park our bicycles, and then a 'bridge fee' for walking over a rickety wooden foot bridge we headed for the entrance to the cave.

We walked through the undergrowth until we reached a small hut, and an elderly man sitting by a number of large inflatable rubber rings. 'Water cave' is a cave filled with water. I guess the clue is in the name. The only way to see inside was by floating on the rubber rings and pulling yourself along a piece of rope.

Inside the cave it was completely dark, apart from the occasional flicker of our head torches against the rock formations extruding from the sides of the cave. We could faintly hear the sounds of water gushing originating from deep inside. Our paddling echoed loudly as we moved deeper and deeper underground. We were told the cave stretches 3km into the cliff face, so we had a long way to paddle until we reached the end. It was a crazy experience, and a unique way of viewing a relatively untouched cave. Good Fun.

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 07:00 Archived in Laos Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

Tubing in Vang Vieng!

A great way to celebrate some good news...

sunny 26 °C

It wasn't long before we found ourselves arriving a legendary backpacker haunt – Vang Vieng. It is this small town out in the country that is home to 'tubing'. We'd heard so much from everyone we'd met about tubing, that we couldn't wait to see what all the fuss was about! To add to the excitement, Steph had found out the night before that she'd been accepted into Epsom University, so now we had reason to celebrate!

The basic idea is that you rent a big inflatable rubber ring and float down the river, stopping off at the countless bars along the way and taking up there offers of free shots and buckets (literally) of alcohol. We'd been told that it's actually better not to rent a tube, as the best bars are at the start, and it complicates things as you have to make it down the river and back to the rental shop by 6pm, otherwise you lose your deposit.

We'd met some Israeli girls a while back on our trip, and happened to bump into them whilst looking for a hotel. We wound up staying at the same place, and therefore shared a tuc tuc on the way to the start of the tubing route.

We got to the start relatively early, at around half 1, but there were already a large number of people starting to fill up some of the early bars. We skipped the first couple and stopped off at 'Jungle Bar', where we bumped into a couple of Israeli guys we'd met on our bus into Laos! The strange thing was that the girls we'd met also knew the guys we'd met - small world! So now we had a bit of a group going, and they were all cool people so we had a lot of fun. Amir even tried to teach me how to juggle, though I think I need a bit more practice before switching careers and become a full time clown!

The vibe along all of the bars was extremely chilled. Everyone was having fun. One of the things that caught my eye were the giant rope swings, zip lines and water slides used by each of the bars to attract more people. I couldn't get enough of it! I tried out as many as I could. It was like a giant playground for adults (not that I'm really an adult).

We stayed late into the day, until the sun disappeared, then decided to head home for a quick shower and some food. The restaurants in Vang Vieng are like no others. There are no seats, only sofa like areas dotted with comfy cushions. It was quite strange to walk in and see absolutely everyone laying down as they sip there drinks and watch TV. Every restaurant is either showing Family Guy, Friends or the Simpsons, and so most people choose where they want to eat simply by what is on the TV!

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 06:59 Archived in Laos Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

A Warm Welcome from the People of Laos

Possibly the most relaxed capital city in the world

sunny 25 °C
View Asia / Oceania / North America on howlett's travel map.

It was a relatively simple affair crossing the border into Laos, and the overnight bus that took us there was actually quite nice, so the journey was even easier.

We got dropped in a central location, not far from the cheap guest houses, and after a bit of asking around we were pointed towards a fantastic little place called the 'Mixay Guest House'. If you ever visit Vientiane I would recommend that you stay there. According to Lonely Planet it is one of the cheapest places to stay in town, but you wouldn't think it. The double room Steph and I got was pristine, and the bed was incredibly comfortable. What makes the place a winner though, is the quality of the staff. Everyone was super friendly and helpful, and the welcome we got as we arrived was fantastic. Free coffee and tea, free sticky coconut rice and cake, and free breakfast the next morning! Great value!

We got our stuff sorted out, then decided to take a local bus ride to a place called 'Buddha Park'. A large grassy area that was filled with countless statues as park of a huge art installation. The artist who developed the park wanted to combine lots of different religions and ideologies into a single exhibit. An interesting concept and great place to visit if you're still undecided in your religious beliefs.

While we wandered the grounds I spotted a huge butterfly fluttering about in the breeze. I tried to sneak up to take a picture when it landed, but it flew away to quick. Feeling a little disappointed, I was about to give up when suddenly it re-emerged and perched itself on a flower right in front of me, as if it was posing for a picture!

Ant knee

Posted by howlett 06:56 Archived in Laos Tagged tourist_sites Comments (0)

(Entries 1 - 10 of 46) Page [1] 2 3 4 5 »